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| written by Thomas Junker |
If there is something like a mid-life-crisis than this tour is the right treatment for recovery. Some say about it that it does not only heal the aches, but also changes the elementary roots of the causes. Some who have finished the tour changed their lives only four weeks after completion — in almost all of its facets. For many Americans it is certainly a powerful wish.
Once in life everyone likes to stand on top of North America’s highest spot, the highest mountain in the US. They claim that they definitely want to see the Mount McKinley. To die afterwards is no shame. Most of them take their RV’s along and most of them have already reached retirement age. By this time many of their former vivid dreams might already have subsided and in the American point of view the mountain is just the mountain. Traveling on a different route up north might give a positive impulse for a man between 40 and 50 years of age and to his own life.
It is the perfect time when joints are not yet stiff and rusty. In Whitehorse the tour leaves the smooth Alaska Highway and leads north (mockers call it the anti-mid-life-crisis-tour). One needs to head for Dawson City and should to enter one or another saloon on the way. There one should drink a few drinks in memory of the men back in the Klondike times. After sobering up one turns back for a few kilometers until reaching the intersection of the Dempster Highway. There the way leads north again (one can’t miss it for there are no other intersections in the area).
Directly at the bridge one finds a truly intriguing lodge to fill the bikes gas tank (to refuel is important for there is no other gas station for the next 380 kilometers) and to treat one’s body. Make sure you ask the host for some gold digging equipment to try your luck in the river bed behind the house. After satisfying the Klondike feeling one should get ready for the maybe best 780 kilometers of gravel in the world. These are totally different from the tracks in Tibet, the Sahara or anywhere else on this planet.
It is a fantastic concert made by the ensemble of tundra and taiga. And best of all — nobody is there to spoil it. One has plenty of time to chill and get thinking while sitting on the KTM 950. You are right, the Alaska Highway is also not crowded like for example the main road from Munich to Schwabing, but the Dempster Highway is different, it is one of a kind. The priorities in life are put in a new order. After completing the tour one might even have solved problems which might have otherwise forced into depression. The unsolvable obstacles in the company might get solved (either one is now ready to head in a new direction or one simply sells the company). Conflicts with one’s wife are solved. There is no reason left to still think about former affairs.
Along the Dempster Highway on the way to Inuvik one finds only one agreeable town: Eagle Plains; which is located about half way. The town is not a big sight, only a restaurant with an attached motel, a gas station and a garage. It seems reasonable to sleep and enjoy the bar here. It is your own fault if you miss it. There is a large window facing north from where one can witness the sun go down for a few minutes around midnight (just enough time to take a leak). Only moments later it rises again. Here one gets to see the full beauty of the midnight sun. Accompanying the view the barkeeper plays a nice tune and the whiskey seems never to run low...
After crossing the Mackenzie River on a peculiar ferry boat one reaches Inuvik on the next day. A big question seems to loom above everyone’s head: Just who does want to live up here on his own free will? Walter the Roofer answers the question — he is one of the few who still live up here. If you cannot find him, ask for him or his children in Inuvik. The man was born in Germany and has roofed all the roofs north of Whitehorse (that is how the legend goes). We enjoyed meeting the guy when we were there. In any case he built an agreeable hotel with attached restaurant in Inuvik. If he died in the meantime make sure you drink to him. He has given many people more than an hour of his life by helping them to find a new meaning in life or a way out of a crisis; and he was successful.
From Inuvik it is worthwhile to fly to Tuktojaktuk. Eskimos live here and the NATO has a large listening post to Russia. But above all one can learn a lot about skilful flying. If the pilot is in a good mood (which is almost always) then he flies barely 50 meters above the tundra (fantastic). If he is in hurry or he is not in the mood for a proper takeoff he will prove that it is possible to air his plane even with tailwinds. PS: On the way back one is recommended to call on Urs Schildknecht at Lake Muncho. He is a bush pilot like they should be. He is master over a region which is as big as Germany, but has only one road (Alaska Highway).
Urs owns three lodges deep in the woods (right next to the Alaska Highway he owns another large lodge with all comforts). To one of them you should let him take you to spend 3 to 4 days breathing nothing but fresh Canadian air which cleanses the soul. This will certainly prove helpful. And a mid-life-crisis will be completely out of your system — I promise!
For more information or help concerning the organization of the tour feel free to contact the author Thomas Junker at travel@ktm.at. |
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